• Breakfast at the Sports Centre’s organic Hugs & Cups in preparation for the via ferrata; a 3-hour nerve-jangling journey across the cliff face from Mürren to Gimmelwald, hundreds of metres above the Lauterbrunnen Valley: don’t look down.

• After the Nepal bridge – no turning back – I need a drink! The local Schwarzmönch beer goes down fast on the sunny terrace of Pension Gimmelwald. Drink in the view of the iconic Alpine triptych – Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau.

• Cable-car to Birg to do the Thrill Walk – just for fun. Walk to Grauseeli – a stunning lake reflecting the surrounding peaks – for my picnic lunch and a spot of sunbathing.

• Set off back to the village via the delightful Flower Trail at Allmendhubel; rolling meadows, gorgeous views and a pleasing sound of birdsong and cowbells in the distance. It doesn’t get more Swiss than this.

• A lazy funicular ride down for afternoon tea on the perfectly-placed Alpenruh Terrace; wander through the village loving the old chalets, their tiny gardens and perfect log stacks. Edy Abegglen is the shop for kiddie-friendly souvenirs, Exile on Main Street for cool garments.

• Squeeze in a swim and a rest. Time my pre-dinner aperitif on the Hotel Eiger’s lovely terrace, to coincide with sunset turning the mountains pink.

• Supper in the Eiger Stübli for the best rösti in town. Chat with proprietors Adrian and Susanna – the fount of all knowledge on the best walking routes.

• Head home. Instead of cars and fumes, palpable silence and touchable stars.

There is a choice of comfortable hotels and self-catered accommodation in Mürren. Choose between a classic Swiss-style lodge, traditional family-run three-star hotels or a four-star hotel with five-star facilities. Most hotels have rooms with stunning views, good dining options and ski/equipment storage rooms.

In addition to excellent hotel dining, there is a handful of standalone restaurants: elegant cuisine in stylish surroundings, traditional mountain fare in a chalet-style hut or al fresco with the mountains for wallpaper. There is also a Chinese takeaway, good cafés and a well-stocked supermarket with a wide selection of fresh, local produce for self-catering.

There is a wellness facility within the Sports Centre where sauna, swimming pool and treatment rooms are available for massages and therapies. The Hotel Eiger has its own wellness facility and pool; some other hotels offer a sauna-wellness zone.

• In summer book a hike to the Schiltalp for breakfast with a farm visit (Mürren Tourism) where they make and smoke their local cheese; buy some to take home.

• If it’s a big hike you are after, explore the Upper Lauterbrunnen valley to Obersteinberg and Oberhornsee lake, either from Stechelberg or better still via Gimmelwald and Tanzbödeli. It’s a long day’s walk – consider overnighting at Obersteinberg (head torch required).

• July is a great month for wild flowers and hiking. Up here, snow cover lasts well into June.

• Dorffest in early August is the village festival: music, drinking, and a parade of cows in flowery headdresses.

• Even if you don’t enter the race, visit at Inferno time (late January), for the exciting atmosphere, the devil-burning procession (with crashing cowbells) and the after-party. Stay on for a few days afterwards – you’ll have the run of the place and the slopes.

• When you do the via ferrata, pause at the base-jumping platform to watch the enthusiasts launch themselves into 500 metres of fresh air.

• Have your photo taken on Mürren’s tree stump (on the lower road) with the Eiger in the background: be creative for IG likes.

• At Piz Gloria, don’t imagine the door with a Bond girl on it is part of the exhibition. It’s the Ladies WC.

• Always request a room with an Eiger view. You won’t regret it!

Breathtaking views; Alpine flora and fauna; reliable snow and uncrowded pistes – even at New Year and half term

Sunglasses giving a 100% guarantee of UV protection. If you plan to do the via ferrata, a pair of non-slip gloves are essential. In winter a balaclava keeps your face warm at the top of the Schilthorn (2,970m) and is especially welcome during the black run Schuss.